Unraveling the World of Crochet: A Journey Through its Origins to the Modern-day Craft

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What is Crochet?

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The name 'crochet' derives from the French term croc/croche, which means 'hook'. Crochet is a fiber art technique that utilizes a crochet hook to interconnect loops or stitches of fiber yarn (such as acrylic, wool, cotton, linen, mohair, etc.) to create intricate and sometimes complex patterns. Hooks can be made out of plastic, metal, wood, bamboo, and even bone [5].

An important thing to discuss are the differences between crochet and knitting because many people get the two techniques confused with each other. Knitting and crocheting are both ways to stitch yarn together and have a few other similarities, but they differ in the tools used, the types of stitches created, and the projects they're best suited for.

The tools that are used is one of the major visual differences during the construction of any project. Crochet uses one single rounded hook (crochet hook). Knitting uses two or more pointed needles (knitting needles). A significant distinction with the techniques is that knitting can be done by hand, loom, or machine, while crocheting is done ONLY by hand. There are no machines in the whole world that can replicate the unique styling of hand-made crochet and if you ever see any mass-produced clothing at stores that are labeled 'crochet' than it is probably a lie.

The process of knitting includes working with multiple open stitches at a time, while the stitches in crochet are usually completed before the next stitch begins. Knitting stitches are more like interlocking loops which allows the stitch to stretch, whereas crochet stitches are more knot-like and causes them to be very solid with very minimal elasticity. If a knitter were to drop a stitch from the needle, the whole column of stitches below it may unravel. If a stitch is dropped while crocheting, it would not lead to such drastic repercussions as there usually is only one active yarn loop.

Crochet is used to create various items, and it is typically able to be more free-styled than knitting, as there are less restrictions in the construction process. Clothing, blankets, decorations, toys (stuffed animals), and anything your mind can image has the compacity to be made using the crochet technique. All that is required to make crochet projects are certain skill sets, such as an eye for color and design, hand-eye coordination, a fondness for fiber arts, and the ability to be patient while creating a project from start to finish.

Knitting allows for a more drape look after completion and is typically used for items that require this look such as garments and other clothing. Crochet creates more delicate and solid stitches which is usually ideal for blankets and table runners, however, there are various types of yarn that allows delicate knits and draped crochet projects to be possible. Also, there are other craft techniques like stretching, blocking, and steaming that will allow for crochet to be more flexible.

{Knitted Halter Top}

{Crochet Crop Top}

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The Historical Thread of Crochet

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Just like most things that are not well-documented, the true origin of crochet is unknown. It is theorized that crochet originated in the Middle East, China, and South America pre-1700s.

Embroidered shirt from the Tang Dynasty

Embroidered garments, such as the shirt shown to the left, from the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE) were made using a combination of chain stitches and straight stitches that resemble modern crochet chains [7]. These types of garments were worn to show wealth and the more elaborate the stitches, the wealthier the person wearing the clothing. So, you could have been considered rich back in ancient China! How cool is that?!

Crochet was introduced to Europe in the 1700s due to the luxurious styling of lace and it was well sought after as well as expensive. The European wealthy was obsessed with the detailing and beauty of lace. Since lace was so expensive, wearing lace was a status symbol and was worn by the elites of European nations. The two types of lace used in Europe were the needle lace and bobbin lace. These lace types were created to make a see-through embroidery-like fabric. Needle lace was made with a single needle and thread, while bobbin lace entails the plaiting of many threads. Lace thread was usually made from linen, and later silk or metallic gold threads, followed by cotton in the 19th century.

A mid-1800s shawl made with Blonde bobbin lace, France (Collection of Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles, Berkeley, CA)

The earliest dated reference in English about clothes made by looping yarn with a hook (shepherd's knitting) is in The Memoirs of a Highland Lady by Elizabeth Grant. Even though the journal entry itself was dated in 1812, it was not officially published until 1898 [6]. Which is honestly a crazy gap in between.

A crocheted purse described in 1823 in Penélopé

The earliest conclusive evidence of crocheted fabric came from Europe made during the 19th century. 1823's Dutch magazine Penélopé, is the first recognized publication that included instructions for a crochet project that also actually included the term 'crochet' to describe the craft being used.

Included in this publication, were a showing of five styles of purses using different types of stitches or a combination of stitch styles such as chain-stitch arches (simple open crochet [crochet simple ajour]), slip-stitches, and "double-crochet stitches" (dubbelde hekelsteek: double-crochet in British terminology; single-crochet in US) while using a shepherd's hook (commonly known as a crochet needle) [9]. This early depiction of a crochet hook had one end similar in shape to a fish-hook [8].

1800s Irish crochet lace

During the Great Irish Famine (1845-1849), Ireland used crochet lace work as a way to give famine relief [3]. Irish women and children sold the crochet laces that they made which allowed them to make money when farming was not an option. This phenomenon expanded so greatly in Ireland, that schools to specially teach crochet were opened and trained teachers were sent throughout the country to spread their knowledge of this craft.

Irish crochet lace, late 19th century. The design is closely based on 17th century Flemish needle lace.

Soon after this popularity spike, the invention of Irish Crochet was established, which Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere, the daughter of a French father and an Irish mother, was credited for starting. In 1829, the first ever crochet pattern was written by her and thus she was coined as the mother of crochet. Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere published the first book of knitting and crochet patterns in 1846. This book became so popular, leading to the Irish lace to reach across the waters to Europe and America. Irish lace bloomed until the first World War. [2]

Portuguese crocheted tablecloth, about 1970

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Twisting Through Time: Crochet in the Modern Era

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1930s crochet dress

Filet crochet by an internee at Manzanar War Relocation Center, 1943. Photo by Ansel Adams.

The fashion of crocheted laces peaked between 1910 and 1920, involving more elaborate stitching and textures. After WWI (1914-1918), fewer crochet patterns were released, and they were more simplified versions of the earlier crochet patterns. It was not until after World War II (1939-1945) that there was a resurgence in home crafts, especially in the United States.

1950s crochet dress

Crocheted granny squares

The new designs were more colorful and was mainly for the purpose of making doilies, potholders, and other home items, including items from earlier publications at this time. These newer patterns used thicker yarns and other types of threads while mainly remaining a homemaker's art until the late 1960s when the newer generation made crochet popularized again with the technique of granny squares.

1960s crochet dress

There was a decline of interest in crochet after this peak, but of course there was soon another peak of popularity for this craft in the early 21st century due to the revival of DIY projects and handcrafts. It really helped that the quality and varieties of yarn vastly improved throughout the years. Also, it was so much easier to learn crochet with the use of YouTube tutorials and videos shared on social media such as Instagram and TikTok, as well as the availability of books and classes (if you would like to take a crochet class, Dreamer Crochet offers classes both online and in-person).

1980s crochet dress

Interestingly enough, crochet has also been shown on the catwalk as well! The use of granny squares, one of the most basic crochet techniques, was displayed in Christopher Kane's Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear collection. Crochet has also been utilized by designers on the reality shown Project Runway. Various websites have made it easier for crocheters to sell and distribute their patterns or projects throughout the internet for everyone to get the chance to see. In modern times, crochet is used as a way to make sustainable fashion.

A model wearing a crochet outfit for Christopher Kane Fall 2011 London Fashion Week show.

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Knotting Together: Current Crochet Trends

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Here are some popular crochet styles:

• Mosaic crochet

• Granny square

• Freeform crochet

• Motifs

• Crocheted lace

• Tunisian crochet

• Tapestry crochet

• Amigurumi

• Filet crochet

• Corner to corner (C2C) crochet

Mosaic crochet

Freeform crochet

Tapestry crochet

Amigurumi

Corner to corner (C2C) crochet

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Looping Forward: The Future of Crochet

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This craft is so handy and has been used to make great impact for those less fortunate. Commonly, groups of people would crochet clothing and other garments for the purpose of donating them to soldiers during war. People also donate crocheted clothing to hospitals for sick patients and newborn babies. Some groups crochet for a specific charity purpose, such as crocheting for homeless shelters, nursing homes, and families in impoverished parts of the world.

It has been popular to create "chemo caps" and donate them to cancer treatment centers for people undergoing chemotherapy which resulted in the loss of their hair. During October, breast cancer awareness month, pink hats and scarves are made and donated to breast cancer funds. There are crochet organizations that offer warm useful items for people in need such as Knots of Love, Soldiers' Angels, and Crochet for Cancer.

Crochet is not only useful for humans but also animals! In 2020, Australian bushfires dangerously affected the wildlife, so people all around the world collectively created crochet kangaroo pouches, koala mittens, and wildlife nests in an international effort to help during the bad bushfire season [4].

The Crochet Coral Reef Project

Crochet can be used to bring awareness to pressing matters going on in the world. In 2005, a group was started to create crochet versions of coral reefs to promote awareness of the effects of global warming. This group started with only a few people and over time grew to over 20,000 contributors in what is now known as the Crochet Coral Reef Project [1]. The creations from this project is displayed in galleries and museums, in which over 2 million people have viewed them.

A collection of crocheted hyperbolic planes, in imitation of a coral reef.

Did you know that you can learn mathematic concepts with crochet? No? Well, crochet can be used to illustrate shapes in hyperbolic space that are difficult to understand when viewed two-dimensionally. Some examples in nature of organisms that show hyperbolic structures include lettuce, flatworms, coral, and seaworms.

Crocheted hyperbolic pseudosphere from the IFF Collection

Mathematician Daina Taimina used crochet in 1997 to create strong, durable models of hyperbolic space after realizing that paper models were way too delicate and hard to create. The use of these crochet models enable people to turn, fold, and manipulate space right in their hands in order to grasp ideas such as how a line can appear curved in hyperbolic space yet actually be straight. You can see her work in an exhibition by the Institute For Figuring (IFF) [8].

So, I say all of this to emphasize that the uses for crochet is vast and wide. You will be surprised by the unlimited usefulness that the craft of crochet can bring. From clothing to coral reef replicas, crochet is not a one-function type of craft. Even I was surprised by the multitude of crochet usage when doing the research for this blog post. This is all the more reason to learn how to crochet if you do not already know how!

Well until next time, thanks for visiting my Dreamer World and have a wonderful day! I hope you learned something new by reading this post!

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References

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1. ^ Burack, Cristina (30 January 2022). "Crocheted ocean art to fight global warming". Deutsche Welt.

2. ^ Bronstein, Zelda (2005-04-19). Art That Saved the Irish From Starvation. Berkeley Daily Planet.

3. ^ "Calling all crafters! Here's how you can help wildlife affected by the Australia wildfires". (2020-10-07). wbir.com.

4. ^ "Crochet | craft". Encyclopedia Britannica.

5. ^ Earnshaw, Pat (1999-01-01). A Dictionary of Lace. Courier Corporation. ISBN 978-0-486-40482-0.

6. ^ Elizabeth Grant, The Memoirs of a Highland Lady, John Murray, London, 1898 p. 182.

7. ^ Gough, H. (2022, October 8). A Brief History of Crochet. Germander Cottage Crafts.

8. ^ "Hyperbolic Space". (2006-12-21). The Institute for Figuring.

9. ^ Miss Lambert, Hand-book of Needlework, New York City, 1842, p.92

10. ^ Wikimedia Foundation. (2024a, September 18). Crochet. Wikipedia.